Copenhagen
The Danes don’t believe in air conditioning. I discovered this shortly after checking into a boutique hotel in Copenhagen, which provided me a weak fan to counter my room’s west-facing windows. (Of course, my misery was spun as “eco-friendly.”) For better or worse, the weather had cooled by the time I checked into my second, even nicer hotel that had a pool.
Other than that, Copenhagen offers everything I think I like: a vibrant urbanism with not-too-tall buildings, a multicultural food scene, and ubiquitous bike lanes (with on-demand e-bike rentals, thanks to Voi). There are fresh bakeries and dimly-lit bars and scenic waterfronts.
But I couldn’t help but find something about its residents irritating. They are too thin and too content. They seem unaware that anywhere else exists, like cowards who’ve grown up only knowing other cowards. My impressions were hardened walking around, where mobs of teenagers passed the long sun-lit hours with seemingly nowhere to be. Maybe I’m just jealous. More objective observations: Restaurants charge for tap water, and worse, Denmark has no ski areas to speak of.
I considered buying an expensive mirrorless camera for this trip. I always imagine that one day I’ll be the kind of person who really enjoys photography. But curiously, I only took a handful of photos during my week and a half in Copenhagen, so I share with you just my two favorites.
Nørrebro
- Hart Bageri — try the Tebirkes poppy-seed pastry ★
- Norange Coffee Roasters — industrial-vibe coffee shop ★
- Assistens Cemetery — a cemetery with many pockets for wandering ★
- Mikkeller & Friends — one of many Mikkeller establishments, this one for cyclists ★
- BRUS — ordinary beers and burgers with uncomfortable seats
- Ramen to Bíiru Nørrebro — ramen not as good as Slurp
Center
- Statens Museum for Kunst (SMK) — centrally-located art museum that spans many eras ★
- Slurp Ramen — frustratingly-good ramen in a small setting ★
- Bar’ Godt — excellent beer with patio people-watching ★
- Pinseria C´ho Fame — unreal pizza and service but not for the claustrophobic ★
- Vital Foods — for a lean, healthy, quick lunch ★
- Godt Øl — impressive beer selection but so-so atmosphere
- Orsa Coffee Landemærket — great coffee and pastries ruined somewhat by influencers ★
- Cantina — pretty good Italian with cute waiters ★
- Ølhaven — craft beer bar in a private courtyard ★
- District Tonkin — refreshing, relaxed Vietnamese restaurant ★
- Nyhavn — tourist-mobbed canal as attractive as photos of it ★
Vesterbro
- Gaza Grill — unreal Palestinian food (try the sampler plate) ★
- Magasasa Dim Sum & Cocktails — adequate Chinese but air conditioned
- KIHOSKH — corner store that specializes in craft beer ★
- Fermentoren — promising bar that was way too smokey
- Belanja — Malaysian spot with perfect but pricey end-of-trip dinner ★
- Smagsløget — overrated sandwiches with weird bread
Islands Brygge/Christianshavn
- Reffen — an outdoor food venue that’s too chaotic for the solo traveler
- Andersen Bakery — few places to sit, but great coffee and pastries ★
- Bootleggers Islands Brygge — good selection but unfriendly to tourists
- Bygul — a true neighborhood bar with good music ★